The dish came about by the proximity of ingredients on hand in our kitchen. I was working on whipped crispy goat cheese, though at the time did not feel like whipping the base so I just dried it instead. We have had similar results drying our crispy yogurt base and its conceptual cousin crispy mastic water. I knew we would get a delicate crisp of goat cheese, though without the light airy texture of the whipped counterpart. What we would do with it was still up for grabs.
The element of clear horseradish-buttermilk is a relatively new staple in our pantry. While we had previously used the broth as a poaching medium for both veal and artichokes we had yet to use it in its pristine and clear form. The tuna and ono were on hand, looking beautiful and calling for a simple clear preparation and presentation. So we brought these base elements together. The final accent for the dish is young leaves of shiso.