In developing our most recent caviar and ice cream preparation for IDSK-4 we had 2 of the three elements in place. The first was lovage-vanilla ice cream, a variation on our cream of watercress ice cream. The second piece of the puzzle was Steve's wild steelhead roe. In order to bring texture and spice to the dish we looked to lovage's demure cousin celery. To add some heat and spice, jalapeno was added to the mix. The two worked well together but needed a boost and a bridge. A trip to the weed patch provided us with fresh lovage, which we charred, chopped and folded into the diced vegetables. Some salt and lemon olive oil brought the relish together. When we served the dish we blended the roe with the relish and then topped it with a mountain of powdered lovage vanilla ice cream.