The menu read: Bone Marrow Dumpling, oxtail, truffle, and oxtail consomme. The ingredients engaged me immediately. I knew I would have to order this dish. "Dumpling" is a very broad category. What would arrive in the bowl? This dumpling was elegant and savory. Thankfully Andrew Zimmerman, the chef of Sepia, was willing to talk about it. He made it with brioche, bone marrow, and egg yolks. The dough was wrapped around braised and glazed oxtail. It was crowned with black truffles from Rod, and swam in a luxurious truffle and oxtail consomme. It looked like a dazzling matzoh ball, in the very best way. The dumpling was delicate. It was a tremendous foil for the decadently delightful oxtail within. When I broke it open, small bits floated in the broth adding substance and depth. My mind began racing with variations and extrapolations. It was an unexpected wonder and an inspiration to do more.
January 18, 2009
January 18, 2005