White anchovies are popping up again. And they are also being used in unexpected places. During our recent meal at wd-50 we had a spectacular dish of fried quail with banana tartar. The secret to the banana tartar was white anchovies which were pureed into the dressing for the bananas. The flavor of the two together is really tasty and as a condiment to breaded and fried quail even better.
Wylie has broken down a wall, one which I really did not know existed. White anchovies are supposed to be appreciated as is, a beautiful ingredient to pay homage to in its simplicity. It seems Wylie just looked at the fish as an ingredient and a flavorful one at that. The banana tartar would not have been nearly as subtle and balanced had he used salt or oil preserved anchovies.
And so as I was organizing my notes today it dawned on me. White anchovy brioche. The balanced fish flavor with its slight acidity and tamed fish qualities would be incredible folded into a brioche dough. I can then see us using the brioche to serve with raw fish preparations or even with, another tip of the hat to Wylie, foie gras terrine.
What I find exciting is the breaking down of barriers, of set rules and ideas. Being able to ask why and why not and then doing something with the answer allows us to travel new paths and stumble upon seemingly new ideas.
