The head, tail and collar of the fish are too often overlooked. They end up in the bin or, at best, in the stock pot. We like to look to them for inspiration instead. We have made fish head cheese and braised the tail in a stew like a shank (idea ripped straight from Thomas Keller). The collars can be marinated and grilled (a common technique in Japanese cooking), smoked and deep fried or trimmed into chops (idea ripped straight from David Burke). Today we ask what else can be done with the odd bits of the fish, what classic dishes revolves around these pieces that require a little more love and attention? Historically dishes were designed to make the most out of every part of an ingredient. Waste was frowned upon. As society grew rich, it became fashionable to serve only the best pieces and discard the rest. These unwanted bits are now coming back into the limelight. They are exciting for cooks because using them allows us to stretch our skills and utilize our knowledge of food, technology and creativity to make them both delicious and appealing. A little knowledge of history and a touch of frugality catalyzes this approach to food. Take a look at what you are cooking with and what you are not using. Do some research and delve into the food to find some new potential we have not seen yet and then please share your explorations and discoveries. We learn better together.
Years Past: