IDEAS IN FOOD

Potential

 

It is not hidden but you do have to work for it. I think that is what we often overlook. The effort and the time the commitment. Instead of spending time looking for hidden potential we need to spend the time working with what is in front of and around us. I forget this all the time and it takes a moment of natural beauty to knock me back into alignment. And so here we have a potential dish, in front of us in the raw. Now comes the difficult and pleasurable task of bringing it to the plate.

Years Past:

February 29, 2008

Simple Cuisine

If one chef has quietly set the pace for what is possible and what should be done in the kitchen it is Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Simple Cuisine is one of those break-through books which should be required reading for all cooks, young and old. To think that this book was published in 1990 is mind blowing because the techniques and the approach to food are essential and still relevant today. Simple Cuisine explores the uses of juices, oils and Asian seasonings through the perspective of classic French technique. Beyond the actual recipes and ingredients is a style and an ethos, which resonates from the pages. This book is a snapshot of a moment in time that still manages to present the future of what is possible with food. And it is done simply. Easy is for everyone but beauty and flavor through simplicity can be the hardest thing to achieve.

 

 

And so this week we are giving away a copy of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's book Simple Cuisine. To enter for a chance to win share your "a-ha" moment experiencing or creating simplicity in food in the comments below. One entry per person please. Comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. Winner will be chosen on Friday, March 2, 2012 at 2pm EST. This giveaway is now closed. Our winner has been notified via email. Thanks for all your comments.

Years Past:

February 28, 2011

February 28, 2010

February 28, 2009

February 28, 2008

Febraury 28, 2007

February 28, 2006

February 28, 2005

The Perfect Pair

Happiness and creativity are decisions we make. They are not always easy to pursue but it is always our choice whether or not to follow their path. In many cases the pair go hand in hand. When we create something it makes us happy and when we are happy we often find it easier to be creative. A recent example of this would be the What IiF gluten free flour. Its creation made us very happy and we publishd the recipe, which led to many conversations and new ideas for using the flour and variations on the theme, which made us even more happy. We're almost sorry to be in Hawaii because we don't have the ingredients to dive right in ourselves. On the other hand, while we are discussing and extrapolating, other people are testing out the theories in their own kitchens and sharing the results, which is almost better because now we have a group of inspirations feeding each other and growing new ideas. What could possibly be better than that?

 

 

Years Past

February 27, 2011

February 27, 2010

February 27, 2009

February 27, 2008

February 27, 2007

February 27, 2006

February 27, 2005

Add Salt to the Conversation

 

The textures and aromas which salt can have can change the perception of an ingredient and a dish. Too much and we fail, too little and we fall flat. The balance in delivery and surprise is what makes good cooking great.

 

Years Past

February 26, 2011

February 26, 2010

February 26, 2009

February 26, 2008

February 26, 2007

February 26, 2006

February 26, 2005

Pull It Into Focus

Being in the food business can be overwhelming. It's not like we can stop eating or drinking or planning the meals that need to prepared and consumed. We all work long hours and there's a certain dedication that must be present in order to succeed in any aspect of this business from cooking to writing and everything in between. Most of the time we welcome the challenge. But sometimes we need a break. We need some time to focus on other things. We think of this action as re-charging our batteries. Time spent reading a good book, walking on a beach or through the streets of a city, watching a funny movie or just hanging out with the people we love is all valuable time spent far from kitchens, cameras and computers. While it is sometimes hard to break away, lo and behold, we often find that a small space is enough to re-invigorate our obsessions and help us find us new inspirations for the kitchen.

One of our favorite things to do when we are in NYC and feeling flush is pay a visit to the Museum of Modern Art. It is a place that takes us out of ourselves and often leaves us awestruck at the work of others, using mediums we had never thought to explore. Great music does the same thing. We often have music in the background when we cook because it helps us keep our pace and motivation. Looking deeper there is something to be gained in submerging yourself in the work of others, really feeling the music and appreciating the passion that went into its creation. It charges you up and makes you want to create something equally full of life and wonder that is uniquely your own. Even taking the time to stop and simply breathe, feeling the movement of your body, listening to the world around you and feeling the air against your cheeks can be wonderful. That moment of inner quiet can help you find the spark you need to go forward and make your castles in the sky a new reality. We are all driven by motivation and finding the influences that inspire us outside of our daily routines will make the difference that sets our work apart and makes it special.

Our lives are so busy and connected that it can be hard to justify taking some time for yourself to do whatever it is that makes you happy. Do it anyway. Learn to listen to yourself, because deep down we all know what we really need out of life (although we may not always like what that is) and knowing what we need makes it easier to make it happen. Be selfish every once in a while because if you aren't happy then you can't create something that shows all of the beauty that's inside of you. Be passionate because emotion always comes through in your work, even in the kitchen, and remember to find the joy in what you do. Success is more than money or prestige, success is doing what we love because we love doing it.

 

Years Past

February 25, 2011

February 25, 2011 (2)

February 25, 2010

February 25, 2009

February 25, 2008

February 25, 2007

February 25, 2006

February 25, 2005

Making Whoopie,

pies that is. These were the initial spark. The cake is chocolate, the filling is strawberry and the hidden treasure is a creme fraiche caramel. Think about the variables and we have one incredible opportunity in our hands.

Years Past:

February 24, 2011

February 24, 2010

February 24, 2009

February 24, 2008

February 24, 2007

February 24, 2006

February 24, 2005

Sorrel Soup: a starting point

Getting ready for spring we started working on a sorrel soup. The soup base is made with pureed sorrel blended with buckwheat porridge. We have also developed a buckwheat cous cous to add a textural contrast to velvety soup. On the side of the soup we have a buckwheat crisp, made from drying out our porridge in a dehydrator.

This composition is a good example of taking an idea and theme too far, or at least making it too large. The sorrel and buckwheat need something to balance them out. A bowl of this acidic and vegetal soup is too much, but as a sauce for something else, let’s says scallops or salmon we would come closer to a harmonious dish.

 

Let’s take an evolutionary approach to the dish. We can look at the complete dish as a way to create elements for separate dishes. The sorrel soup would be great as a green sauce on raw fish. The buckwheat crisp would work wonderfully with a composed vegetable dish or as an accompaniment to a soup, maybe just not sorrel. The buckwheat cous cous is tender and earthy and calling for richer flavors like morels, asparagus, and smoked rabbit sausage. Imagine a spring tagine with buckwheat cous cous as the backbone.

The soup was the catalyst for the ideas, yet the application and integration of them into our playground will be in a variety of unintended forms.

Years Past:

February 23, 2011

February 23, 2010

February 23, 2009

February 23, 2008

February 23, 2007

February 23, 2006

February 23, 2005

What IiF Flour

 

 

My interest in gluten free flour was re-kindled when I received a text from Marco Canora asking about gluten free pasta recipes for the machine. We had previously formulated a recipe for a rice noodle, which I happily shared. I noted that the texture was good, a slippery style noodle, but it was not an exact replica for traditional Italian style extruded noodles.  Here is the recipe.

 

Rice Noodles

 

1000 grams brown rice flour

800 grams white rice flour

200 grams tapioca flour

26 grams xanthan gum

13 grams salt

800-850 grams water

 

Put the brown rice flour, white rice flour, tapioca flour, xanthan gum and salt into the pasta machine and mix to distribute in the hopper. With the machine running, drizzle the water into the machine. Mix the dough for 6-7 minutes. Check the consistency of the dough after four minutes. It should begin to resemble course streusel.  Squeeze the dough together in your hand. Break the dough apart. If it breaks cleanly the dough has enough water. If it crumbles add additional water in 20 gram increments. After the dough is kneaded, let it rest for ten minutes for ideal hydration. You can begin to extrude at this point as well.

 

(Cavatelli Made with What Iif Flour)

 

His query got my brain buzzing again on gluten free flours and noodles. As luck or coincidence or awareness would have it I followed up our texts by stumbling upon a small letter in Cooks Illustrated magazine in the “notes from readers” section.  The letter was on Thomas Keller’s Cup 4 Cup flour. I had remembered reading about this flour before and was impressed not just with the idea, but also with the name and his ingenuity in creating a “flour” blend that would replicate the actions of traditional all-purpose flour. Unfortunately the cost, roughly 20 dollars for 3 pounds, had me think twice about buying it. I read the Cooks Illustrated piece that mentioned the ingredient list for his flour: mostly cornstarch, tapioca flour, white and brown rice flour, milk powder and xanthan gum.  These ingredients were nearly identical to the pasta dough recipe. The addition of cornstarch as a textural and bulking agent and the non-fat milk powder as a protein source also caught my attention. With the elements in front of me I quickly scribbled down what I thought would be a good blend. After looking at the numbers I made a few adjustments, which is the blend below.

 

 

 

 

When I returned from the trip we dove back into book mode. Finally, one morning I woke up early enough and put together my “flour” blend. I waited for Amaya to wake up before blendering (an in house technical term) and then we set about testing. My first test was pasta dough; I used the miso noodle recipe from our book. Low and behold the flour and the recipe worked really well. The pasta was a bit short and tender before cooking but was incredible once cooked. Then I handed the flour to Aki and she made her brownies, and brown butter cake with cherries and pecans. Unbelievably both cooked up perfectly and were absolutely delicious. Then I took the flour back and mixed up our no-knead brioche recipe from our book and Aki’s chocolate chip cookies, the recipe is in The Kitchen As a Laboratory. The no-knead brioche was beautiful and I used it to make cinnamon rolls and Craquelin inspired by Francisco Migoya. Everything worked. At first, the cookies spread quite a bit in the baking but I resolved that issue with a few ring molds and now have perfectly round cookies, something I had not previously thought of. The Craquelin were delicious and the little pocket where the sugar cube melted was a delightful surprise.

 

 

 

 

This flour changes what is possible in our kitchen and we hope that it will change the kitchens of the many people who have been without the benefits of wheat flour in theirs. No longer do you have to ask what if.

 

 

 

What IiF Flour

 

700 grams cornstarch

450 grams tapioca starch

450 grams white rice flour

200 grams brown rice flour

200 grams non-fat milk powder

20 grams xanthan gum

 

Put the cornstarch, tapioca starch, white rice flour, brown rice flour, milk powder and xanthan gum into a large bowl and whisk together. Put the blended powders into a blender in small batches and turn the blender on low and increase the speed to high. Use the blender to pulverize the powders and uniformly grind them. After each batch of powder is pulverized put it into a large bowl. This will take 6-8 times if using a large commercial blender. Once the powders are all finely ground stir them together one last time in the bowl and then put the “flour” into zip top bags for storage.

Years Past:

February 22, 2011

February 22, 2010

February 22, 2009

February 22, 2008

February 22, 2007

February 22, 2006

February 22, 2005

 

Classic Home Desserts

 

This is one of my favorite books because it has a little bit of everything presented with knowledge and humor and an irrepressible love of sweets. While there are many comprehensive dessert books out there, this one covers a wide range range of American classics with solid recipes and real personality. From St. Louis Gooey cake to coconut tapioca pudding, there is a variation on almost every well-loved dessert you can think of. The techniques are solid and easily extrapolated and the stories are priceless. We love dessert because it makes us happy and reading the stories behind the individual recipes makes you love them that much more.

 

This week we are giving away one copy of Classic Home Desserts by Richard Sax. To enter to win please leave us a comment telling us about one of your favorite desserts. Comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. One entry per person please. Winner will be picked randomly on Friday, February 24, 2012 at 2pm EST (we'll be on the road.) This giveaway is now closed. Winner has been notified via email. Thank you for all your comments.

Years Past

February 21, 2011

February 21, 2010

February 21, 2009

February 21, 2008

February 21, 2007

February 21, 2006

February 21, 2006 (2)

February 21, 2005

Lines of Communication

One of the reasons we love Twitter is conversations like this:

 

 

 

Smart phones really have changed the culinary landscape. Chefs and cooks are so much more open about what they're doing and social media allows all of us to connect with each other in ways that were never possible before. If you find the right people to follow you can learn from the best there is. Of course it is a two way street. You've got to give a little of yourself in order to get something in return. But then that's life in nutshell isn't it?

 

 

Years Past

February 20, 2011

February 20, 2010

February 20, 2009

February 20, 2008

February 20, 2007

February 20, 2006

February 20, 2006 (2)

February 20, 2005

Glazed Sunchokes

This dish is something special. The sunchokes were cooked in pink grapefruit juice with poppy seeds and when they were done they had the most incredible texture, they had a slightly crisp exterior that gave way to a soft, tender interior. It was a welcome surprise and it really made the dish something special. The glazed sunchokes were paired with home made cream cheese and watercress. It's a riff on something we're doing for the next book. We like to go the extra mile for a special evening in our own dining room.

 

Years Past

February 19, 2011

February 19, 2010

February 19, 2009

February 19, 2008

February 19, 2007

February 19, 2006

February 19, 2005

What If...

you could do anything you wanted to? What would you be doing right now and who would you be with? These are probably the most important questions you can ask. Live large and be true to yourself.

 

 

 

Years Past

February 18, 2011

February 18, 2010

February 18, 2009

February 18, 2008

February 18, 2007

February 18, 2006

February 18, 2005

Penny De Los Santos

This video is on the longer side, 50 minutes or so. I watched it in spurts because that's how I was able to carve out the time. It didn't matter that I didn't see it all at once, it still moved me. It's the introduction to Penny De Los Santos' Food Photography class with Creative Live. Watch it and be inspired.

 

 

Years Past

February 17, 2011

February 17, 2010

February 17, 2009

February 17, 2008

February 17, 2007

February 17, 2007 (2)

February 17, 2006

February 17, 2005

Make a Paste

Years ago, back when we worked at Clio, we did a dinner with Madhur Jaffrey. It was my first experience cooking Indian food and it was a revelation. I loved the silken feel of the cooked vegetables on my palate, the intensely aromatic spices and the way textures and flavors were blended together into a harmonious whole. One of the techniques that stayed with me through the years was her method of pureeing an onion with fresh ginger and jalapeno in the blender to make a puree. Although I can't remember the the exact dish we used it for, I think it was spinach, I still use her blender method on a regular basis. These days I use it mostly for marinades. I always start with an onion and then add spices, seasonings and aromatics according to the dish. The marinade clings to whatever it is being used to season and adds great flavor to the finished dish. The beauty of the onion is that it's like that little black dress, it goes with anything and often amplifies the positive attributes of its accessories.

 

Years Past:

February 16, 2011

February 16, 2010

February 16, 2009

February 16, 2008

February 16, 2007

February 16, 2006

February 16, 2005

Get to the Point

 

 

This is the point cut of the brisket which we have separated from the flat and trimmed to remove surface fat and connective tissue. For me, this is the best part of the brisket. Unfortunately, it leaves a lot on the cutting room floor. I needed to make the end result of highlighting the point special, worth the effort involved, and find a way to utilize all of the meat without wasting the majority of the brisket. We took the fat and smoked it, then rendered it with onions to make a beef fat schmaltz. The cracklings and onions were pressure cooked with water, red wine, onion, sun dried tomato and kombu. The flat portion of the brisket was ground into burger meat, a variation on our butter burgers. So now we have a tremendous stock, an extrememly flavorful tallow, delicious burgers and a beautiful piece of meat to cook. TIme to get to the point.

 

Years Past:

February 15, 2011

February 15, 2010

February 15, 2009

February 15, 2008

February 15, 2007

February 15, 2006

February 15, 2005

Wild Fermentation

 

This week we are talking about Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz. It's no secret that we're fans of fermentation. Several chapters in our book were devoted to the subject and there there is always something new to learn about. Fermentation, in its various forms seems to be found in the food of every culture on earth. It changes ingredients and makes them more digestible and in many cases, more delicious. So when we stumbled across this great book devoted to the subject we knew we had to pick it up.

 

Many of the most informative fermentation books out there are textbooks, which are heavy on information but not very readable or approachable. This book is everything a cook needs it to be. The beginning discusses the history and culture of fermentation and touches on the health benefits of eating fermented foods. Then it gets down to the practical aspects of making fermented foods. The recipe and technique chapters are broken down by the type of fermentation involved. It begins with vegetable ferments. These are the pickles that are most familiar to the home cook. We all make them in some form or another, even if it's just lightly pickling summer vegetables in a vinaigrette for a few hours. Then it moves on to beans. Beans? Actually it is mainly a chapter on miso, making your own and using it in recipes. From there we move through dairy, breads, grain porridges and beverages, wine, beer and vinegar. There is more than enough information and basic recipes to get you started in your own kitchen and once you've begun, the possibilities are endless.

This week we are giving away one copy of Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz to one of our readers. To enter to win please leave a comment telling us about one of your favorite fermented foods. One entry per person please. Comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. Winner will be chosen on Friday, February 17, 2012 at 9am EST. This giveaway is now closed. Our winner has been otified via email. Thanks for commenting.

 

Years Past

February 14, 2011

February 14, 2010

February 14, 2009

February 14, 2008

February 14, 2007

February 14, 2007 (2)

February 14, 2006

February 14, 2005

Skin Deep

We have explored dehydrating cucumber slices as well as slices of a variety of other gourds. The flavors concentrate and the texture becomes leathery and chewy. When we puree these semi-dried fruits we end up with an incredibly flavorful expression of the fruit. So we figured if the slices worked well, drying the whole thing would be better.

Well, first of all drying whole cucumbers takes time. Second of all drying whole cucumbers smells more like rotting cucumbers. If you can get past these first two obstacles you end up with a long, leathery and limp cucumber which looks weeks past its prime. Yet, the leathery, wrinkled skin is appealing. It is a texture and color we have not worked with and it draws us in. The flesh of the dried cucumber is less than thrilling, really a concentrated bitter pulp. So, with optimism we tried the skin. It seems we need more optimism because the skin is bitter and rather off putting. It is something we want to like, tasting again and again, hoping for an improvement and knowing full well we are not going to get it. Still, this initial exploration shows promise. I think a better cucumber may provide results worth smiling about. And if the cucumber fails then their is the zucchini and if not the zucchini well... Ideas are only skin deep, it is when you put them into practice that you can discover their potential.

Years Past

February 13, 2011

February 13, 2010

February 13, 2009

February 13, 2008

February 13, 2008 (2)

February 13, 2007

February 13, 2006

February 13, 2005

February 13, 2005 (2)

Cilantro Butterflies

 

We really enjoy the flavor and texture of cilantro leaves and stems. The stem adds crunch and juiciness and the leaves add a silky delivery of the cilantro. In order to share this dual pleasure we have come to trim the middle of the cilantro stem. It has two side leaves on it and when trimmed it roughly resembles a butterfly. Now we can deliver the flavors and textures of leaves and stems in one shot.

 

 

Years Past:

February 12, 2011

February 12, 2010

February 12, 2009

February 12, 2008

February 12, 2007

February 12, 2006

February 12, 2005

Burnt Lemon Marmalade

The plan was a Meyer lemon marmalade. The result was a burnt Meyer lemon marmalade. Happy accidents still happen, it's being open to them and willing to work with them as they occur that is essential.

 

Years Past

 

February 11, 2011

February 11, 2010

February 11, 2009

February 11, 2008

February 11, 2007

February 11, 2007 (2)

February 11, 2006

February 11, 2005

Sourdough and Strawberries

We have taken a new look at our sourdough ice cream and rebuilt it from the sourdough up. We are currently exploring uses and applications for it. While we noodle around with the new model we are enjoying taking it for test rides. Yesterday, or was it the day before, time and space are blurring, we ate it with strawberry preserves and cake crumb streusel. Not a bad way to ponder the evolution of a kitchen staple.

 

Years Past

February 10, 2011

February 10, 2010

February 10, 2009

February 10, 2008

February 10, 2008 (2)

February 10, 2007

February 10, 2006

February10, 2005

Chili and Cornbread Waffles

Step One:

Step Two:

 

Step Three:

And there was sour ceam too. In case people needed a little respite from the heat. It's every bit as good as you think it was. Try this at home and you won't be sorry.

 

Years Past

February 9, 2011

February 9, 2010

February 9, 2009

February 9, 2008

February 9, 2008 (2)

February 9, 2007

February 9, 2006

February 9, 2005

Wednesday is

...book day. At least this week. We are facing a couple of challenges here in the kitchen. Amazing how one email can throw off an entire day, I'm sure you've all been there. The book we should be giving away this week is The Power of Positive Thinking by Dr. Norman Vincent Peale, not because we've actually read it but because it's probably what we should be reading at the moment. But hell if we're going to give in to a few obstacles in our path. Competition makes us competitive and roadblocks simply force us to be more creative. This is never a bad thing. Today we're shaking off the negative mojo on our own and moving on to bigger and better things.

 

Some of the best chefs and entrepreneurs out there got to the top of their game simply by doing things differently. There's a lot of commonly held wisdom that isn't always correct and the real trail blazers have never been afraid to cut a path straight through uncharted territory just to see what would happen. David Burke is one of those chefs. Alex worked for him way back in the day. Back then The Park Avenue Cafe was, in his words, a crazy busy hard core kitchen. If you were willing to work hard and had a real passion for food there was a lot to learn and you could find mentors willing to teach you but only if you were willing to put in the time and effort to prove that you really wanted to learn. There were no easy work days or short shifts. It was sink or swim, survival of the fittest, but if you had the stamina and the desire there was a lot to be taken in.

 

Today we are giving away   Cooking With David Burke of The Park Avenue Cafe. This is an older book that has weathered the test of time. Burke has a sense of whimsy that has never deserted him. He is known for over the top presentations and big flavors. The book is full of building blocks recipes and components that marry beautifully with a variety of dishes even though they are set into his creations for the recipes. There are flavored oils, pickling liquids, batters and brines and a bird's eye view into the mind of the chef, with thoughts on how to build dishes and why layering flavors and textures into beautiful creations is such an important part of his cuisine. And the dessert section is full of wonderful things.  All in all it's a book you want to have in your personal library. As you read through the pages you will see countless ideas and techniques that are now commonplace but were groundbreaking at the time. Of course David Burke is still a chef at large and there are new discoveries to be found in his kitchens today.

This week we are giving away one copy of Cooking With David Burke At The Park Avenue Cafe by David Burke and Carmen Reingold. To enter to win please a comment telling us about the most creative and enjoyable meal you've ever experienced. One entry per person please, comments are moderated and will not appear immediately. Winner will berandomly picked on Friday, February 10, 2012 at 9am EST. This giveaway is now closed. The winner has been notified via email. Thanks for all your great comments.

Years Past:

February 8, 2011

February 8, 2010

February 8, 2009

February 8, 2008

February 8, 2007

February 8, 2006

February 8, 2005

The Sour 5

 

If you have been reading along for a bit you know we are vinegar fanatics. We have been making our own for as long as we have been blogging. If you want to dive into your own vinegar production we cover it in great detail in our book. Our current roster of vinegars in the fermenting room is fondly known by us as the sour 5. The red wine vinegar is our every wine vinegar which we give away to those deserving and wanting to dive into the rabbit hole. The maple is my favorite and featured in our book. The pumpernickel really does taste like pumpernickel bread and we are still working on applications for it. The tequila vinegar grew out of my passion for tequila and has now been fed with some mezcal to lend it a background smoky note. The honey vinegar is the newest to our arsenal and the current go to as its flavor is well rounded and delicate. The honey flavors while bold are tamed by the acidity which brings the vinegar together. Making vinegar can be as personal and inspirational as you let it. You can really see us reflected in every bottle.

 

 

 

Years Past:

February 7, 2011

February 7, 2010

February 7, 2009

February 7, 2008

February 7, 2007

February 7, 2006

February 7, 2005

Bacon, Eggs and Red Wine

There's a classic Italian dish where pasta is cooked in red wine. SInce we had some leftover wine  from a dinner party we decided to put in our pasta dough as a twist on the theme. The finished noodles had a nice flavor and acidity. They were aromatic, fruity and floral with a hint of tannin on the finish, all things we look for in a great glass of wine. Today we had a fresh batch of creamy ricotta cheese and we decided to bring two great things together. While the pasta cooked we crisped up a few lamb lardons and then tossed the cooked noodles with the bacon and a bit of the cooking water. Then we added a knob of sweet butter to emulsify the sauce. We put a dollop of ricotta cheese in the center and nestled in a soft egg yolk. It was a bit of an optical illusion because it looked like a fried egg and tasted like something entirely different. It was comfort food of the highest order, a dish we'd happily eat or serve again.

 Red Wine Noodles

1800 grams semolina flour

200 grams cabernet grape skin flour

640 grams red wine

13 grams baking soda

Put the semolina, grape skin flour and baking soda into the pasta machine and mix to distribute in the hopper. With the machine running, drizzle the wine into the machine. Mix the dough for 6-7 minutes. Check the consistency of the dough after four minutes. It should begin to resemble course streusel.  Squeeze the dough together in your hand. Break the dough apart. If it breaks cleanly the dough has enough hydration. If it crumbles add additional wine in 20 gram increments. After the dough is mixed you can begin to extrude.

Years Past

February 6, 2011

February 6, 2010

February 6, 2009

February 6, 2008

February 6, 2007

February 6, 2006

February 6, 2005

Super Bowl Sunday XLVI

It's almost time for the game and we're outta here. Before we go we wanted to share our contribution to the Super Bowl Party. It's a baked brie wrapped in pepperoni. The idea is that as it bakes the pepperoni will crisp and bathe the (all butter) puff pastry below it with spicy goodness. That way when we cut into it to get to the cheese there are different layers of texture and flavor to make us happy. TIme to go root for the Giants. Or well, I'll be rooting for them. Alex will just be eating.

 

 

 

Years Past

February 5, 2011

February 5, 2010

February 5, 2009

February 5, 2008

February 5, 2007

February 5, 2006

February 5, 2005

Dehydrated Kimchi

We love our dehydrator. We think of it as a flavor concentrator because when you remove the water from an ingredient it concentrates the flavor. It's a simple idea that does not get enough play in the cooking arena. Once you've dehydrated something you can pulverizie it in a blender or food processor and introduce it to a variety of preparations from batters to sauces. Or you can make sugars or salts with them. Imagine strawberry sugar (okay I'm cheating here because you need freeze dried strawberries) or jalapeno salt. Dehydrated carrots ground with sugar and flour make for an intense carrot cake while dehydrated lardons can be fried to crackling perfection. It's a low-tech machine that is good for a wide variety of applications.

The only problem I have with our dehydrator is that it is perched on top of the refrigerator in the workshop. This means I have to haul out a stepstool or climb up a chair in order to actually see what's inside it. And either way I'm turning it on by feel because the temperature control is on top and in the back and there's no way I can see it without pulling the machine off its perch. None of this would be a problem if Alex didn't have this habit of texting me when he's out and about and I'm working from home. It's amazing how often I get the "Can you put xx into the dehydrator please?" text. What's also amazing is that the dehydrator in question is never turned on and never ever empty. This means I am often putting away or finding a spot for a bunch of things that no longer need too be in the dehydrator in order to fit the new ingredients inside. Frustration. So after my most recent experience of trying to empty and turn on the dehydrator in order to make his most recent vision a reality, I was not a particularly happy camper.

He got home a few hours later and one of the first things out of his mouth was "Is the kimchi in the dehydrator?"

"Why yes it is."

Not content to take my word for it he went to check. "Oh my god, there are whole trees in there."

"Yup." I kept doing what I was doing. "Is that a problem?"

"Well it's going to take forever too--" he took a better look at me, "No, no, it's fine. I'm sure it will be great."

A good partnership is all about picking your battles.

 

Years Past

February 4, 2011

February 4, 2010

February 4, 2009

February 4, 2008

February 4, 2007

February 4, 2006

February 4, 2006 (2)

February 4, 2005

Smoked Oatmeal Craisin Cookies

Smoked Oatmeal Craisin Cookies

Amaya loves her craisins. She actually likes most dried berries but craisins are her favorites. That tart-sweet taste appeals to her. So it was a no-brainer for us to add them to oatmeal cookies, a perennial favorite in our house. That chewy sweet texture is the perfect afternoon snack for all of us and punched out and baked over a bed of fruit it makes a wonderful crisp. Try it and you'll understand what we're talking about. 

225 grams unsalted butter, room temperature

215 grams brown sugar

150 grams granulated sugar

2 large eggs

5 grams vanilla

225 grams all purpose flour

6 grams salt

5 grams baking soda

0.5 grams nutmeg

2 grams ground cinnamon

270 grams smoked rolled oats (plain rolled oats are almost as delicious)

180 grams dried sweetened cranberries

 

Put the butter in a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat until creamy. Add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing until each one is fully incporporated. Add the vanilla and mix until fully absorbed into the mix. Whisk together the flour, salt,  baking soda, nutmeg and cinnamon and add them to the mixer. Mix on low until they are fully incorporated. Add the rolled oats and the cranberries and mix on low until just combined. Put the cookie dough into a vacuum bag and vacuum seal to hydrate the dough. Alternatively wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill it overnight,

Pre-heat the oven to 350°F.

Cut the dough into the desired shapes or use a small scoop to drop tablespoons of dough onto a prchment lined sheet pan. Bake the cookies for 7 minutes and then rotate the cookie sheet 180° and bake for 5 minutes more until golden brown. Let the cookies cool for at least 5 minutes before eating.

*Alternatively roll the dough out abut 1/4-inch thick and cut it out to fit over the top of a fruit crisp. Bake as usual, covering the crisp with foil if it starts to get too brown.

 

Years Past

February 3, 2011

February 3, 2010

February 3, 2009

February 3, 2008

February 3, 2008 (2)

February 3, 2007

February 3, 2007 (2)

February 3, 2006

February 3, 2005

A Few Good Links

Because we often look to other for inspirations.

Michael Laiskonis sharing several great recipes and techniques.

Alex Stupak on "cod masa."

The periodic table of meat.

Possibly the funniest cookbook review ever.

Ravenous, The Taste of Home by Monique Truong via the Times Magazine.

Lemon curd in the microwave.

How to make Yuzu Kosho at home.

 

 

Years Past

February 2, 2011

February 2, 2010

February 2, 2009

February 2, 2008

February 2, 2007

February 2, 2006

February 2, 2005

Leftovers

There are two camps of thought when it comes to leftovers, those who won't touch them and those who adore them. Sometimes this is dish specific. There are many people who will eat cold leftover meat and shun leftover Chinese food or pasta. Those ham bones and chicken carcasses are often coveted for soup, while leftover fish is sometimes scorned as flavorless and over-cooked. Although here's a hint, if it's overcooked when it's cold it was probably already there when you ate it the night before. Maybe you like it that way. Some dishes such as beans, braises, etc. are better then next day and deliberately held over before serving. But then this falls outside the category because they aren't leftovers until after they've been served for the first time. As I recall, MFK FIsher once wrote of loving fried chicken for the spaghetti dish that it became the next day. Me, I love leftovers of all kinds for all of their possibilities.

 

Just recently I turned leftover roast chicken into salad, not a new thing by any stretch but still as just as good as the first incarnation the night before. Cold shrimp cakes were diced into a spicy tomato sauce for a Chinese inspired Fra Diavolo sauce served with pasta. Leftover shortribs and steamed potatoes became hashcakes, the perfect landing pad for onsen eggs and bernaise sauce. Shishito peppers and lemon roasted potatoes are baked into a an exotic fritatta casserole that is really a play off the classic potato-pepper-egg hero that I grew up seeing in Italian pizza joints. It's all in your perspective. Instead of viewing them as leftovers I like to see them as ingredients. After years of creating family meal out of odds and ends it's an automatic reflex to see new dishes in what is left from the old. Sometimes the second meal is even better than the first and it sparks a whole new inspiration.

 

When we first made the leap from restaurant to home kitchen what I missed most was the pantry. This was not just the spice rack or dry storage, though I missed those too, it was the abundance of prepped food to play with. Restaurant dishes have many steps because there are many hands to do the work of cooking and cleaning. You can easily play with different combinations because most of the base ingredients are already available, prepped and partially cooked in the walk-in. When we are working through a manuscript this abundance comes back to us. There's more food around than we can eat or give away each night and since we are writing for website and publisher we happily put it all to use. Leftover english muffin dough becomes a sourdough loaf studded with prosciutto bits and caramelized onions, runny caramel tarts get chopped up and folded into ice cream, and leftover pepperoni gets baked on top of brussel sprouts. Waste not, want not is our motto, as dictated by both conscience and budget. If we're going to use our leftovers, we may as well have a little fun with it. Since we're using something that has already served it's original purpose, we can be a little more creative. Truthfully some of our best creations have come from these inspirations. Sometimes it's good to play with your food.

 

Years Past

February 1, 2011

February 1, 2010

February 1, 2009

February 1, 2008

February 1, 2008 (2)

February 1, 2007

February 1, 2006

February 1, 2005

February 1, 2005 (2)

February 1, 2005 (3)