My biggest challenge in working with udon was to create the unique, chewy texture without using the insane amounts of salt that are traditionally added to the dough. I decided to look at hydration and texture as separate techniques. Then I utilized our method of adding salt and baking soda to a dough in order to add chew and snap to the noodles. We explored a similar approach in the making of steamed buns, where baking soda is kneaded into a leavened yeast dough to add additional springiness and chew.
For our udon noodles we made a basic dough with flour and water. We kneaded it and let it rest several times until the dough appeared silky and soft. Then we added less than 1% salt and 1% baking soda to the dough and kneaded it in. We let the dough rest overnight wrapped in plastic in the refrigerator. In the morning, we rolled it into udon noodles and dropped them into boiling water.
The noodles cooked in about 7 minutes. When they first hit the water, they puffed and looked enormous. As they continued to cook, they shrank down into a more traditional udon size, a generous 1/8 inch thickness. We finished our noodles in a ham broth with some grated parmigano reggiano, black pepper and a nest of arugula on top. They were toothsome, springy, and delicious. The noodles had a soft, silky texture that made it very satisfying to chew on them and savor the rich broth coating the noodles.
Years Past
Ideas in Food: Great Recipes and Why They Work
Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook
Gluten Free Flour Power: Bringing Your Favorite Foods Back to the Table
